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A CAJUN THREE POT MEAL

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This authentic cajun three pot meal consists of cajun meatloaf, dirty rice, and cajun maquechou--a cajun dish with corn as its basis. Cajun cuisine traditionally calls for a meat dish, a rice dish, and a vegetable dish--thus called the three pot meal. It is named for the French-speaking Acadian or Cajun immigrants deported by the British from Acadia in Canada to the Acadiana region of Louisiana. A rustic cuisine, it uses locally available ingredients, and preparation is kept simple.

The history of cajun cuisine: again, an authentic cajun meal is usually a three-pot affair, with one pot dedicated to the main dish, one dedicated to steamed rice, skillet cornbread, or some other grain dish, and the third containing whatever vegetable is plentiful or available.  The aromatic vegetables bell pepper, onion, and celery are called by some chefs the holy trinity of creole and cajun cuisines.  Finely diced and combined in cooking, the method is similar to the use of the mire poix in traditional French cuisine—which blends finely diced onion, celery, and carrot.  Characteristic seasonings include parsley, bay leaf, green onions or scallions, and dried cayenne pepper, onion, and celery are called by some chefs the holy trinity of creole and cajun cuisines. 

When the Cajuns arrived in Louisiana around 1768, Louisiana was already occupied with European slave owners and African slaves.  The African slaves were rice growers from West Africa, expert farmers, domestic workers, and cooks.  The Louisian Cuisine was actually already developed in the homes of the European slave owners.  The Acadian refugees, who largely came from what is now modern-day New Brunsick and Nova Scotia, were farmers rendered destitute by the British expulsion and had to learn from the African and Native American slaves to live off the land.  They adapted their French rustic cuisine to the local Louisiana cuisine and the ingredients used in the already developed cuisine of the African slaves, such as rice, crawfish, and sugar cane.  Many households were large, consisting of eight to twelve people; thus, regardless what other vocations may have been followed by the head of household, most families also farmed.  Feeding a large family, all of whose members did hard physical work every day, required a great amount of food.  Cajun cuisine grew out of supplementing rice with white meat, game, or other proteins where available such as crawfish or any other type of river creature. In addition to African cuisine French, Spanish, and Indian culinary influences can also be detected in cajun food.  Another hallmark of the cuisine of the African slaves who developed the cooking styles in Louisiana was the art of smoking food.  Smoking techniques were developed by the Native Americans and African slaves who came from nomadic cultures.  The purpose of smoking meat was to render a longer life onto the foods for the long journeys ahead.  These techniques of smoking were adapted to the Louisiana style of cooking and is still used today in creole and cajun cuisines.

The traditional cajun methods of preparation include:

Barbecuing--similar to slow and low Texas barbecue traditions but with cajun seasoning.

Smoking--indirect dry heat taught to the Cajuns by the Native Americans and African slaves.

Baking--direct and indirect dry heat in a furnace or oven, faster than smoking but slower than grilling.

Grilling--direct heat on a shallow surface.

Charbroiling-- direct dry heat on a ribbed surface, fastest of all techniques.

Griddling-- direct dry or moist heat along with the use of oils and butter on a flat surface, also a very fast method. 

Boiling--as in boiling of crabs, crawfish, or shrimp, in seasoned liquid.

Braising--combining a direct dry heat charbroil grill with a pot filled with broth for direct moist heat, faster than smoking but slower than regular grilling and baking; time starts fast, slows down, then speeds up again to finish.

Deep frying--complete immersion into hot oil. 

Étouffée--cooking a vegetable or meat in its own juices, similar to braising or what in New Orleans is called "smothering."

Frying--also known as pan-frying.

Injecting--using a large syringe-type setup to place seasoning deep inside large cuts of meat.

Stewing--also known as fricassée.

Deep-frying of turkeys or oven-roasted turduckens entered southern Louisiana cuisine more recently. Also, blackening of fish or chicken and barbecuing of shrimp in the shell are not considered traditional cajun cuisine because again they are more current additions to Louisiana cooking. 

Other misconceptions regarding traditional cajun cuisine...

These dishes are sometimes mistakenly called cajun: Bananas Foster, beignets, bread pudding, cajun fries, cajun sausage other than andouille, calas, chicken and dumplings, deep fried turkey (deep frying of whole turkeys outdoors in a large pot,) oysters rockefeller or casino, Popeye's Fried Chicken® (a US chain founded in New Orleans, was intentionally "cajunified"), red beans and rice, and Spicy Cajun McChicken®.

Cajun or cajun-influenced chefs would include John Folse, Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, and Justine Wilson.

As promised, some dreaded photos of my college years...

Recipes are courtesy of Cajun Cuisine of the Bayou.

Cajun Three Pot Meal: Cajun Meatloaf, Dirty Rice, Cajun Maquechou        [Serves 6]

Cajun Meatloaf Served with Very Hot Cajun Sauce [Recipe included]

Ingredients:

Seasoning Mix:

2 bay leaves

2 tsp. of salt

1 tsp. of ground red cayenne pepper

1 tsp. of black pepper

½ tsp. of white pepper

½ tsp. of ground cumin

½ tsp. of ground nutmeg

Meatloaf:

4 tbsp. of butter

1 medium onion, chopped

½ cup of celery, chopped

½ cup of green bell pepper, chopped

¼ cup of green onion (scallion), chopped

2 tsp. of minced garlic

1 tbsp. of tabasco sauce

1 tbsp. of Worcestershire sauce

½ cup of evaporated milk

½ cup of catsup

1½ lb. of ground beef

½ lb. of ground pork

2 eggs, slightly beaten

1 cup of dry bread crumbs

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350°. Combine the seasoning mix ingredients and set aside. Melt the butter in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, onion, garlic, tabasco and Worcestershire sauces, and seasoning mix. Sauté until mixture starts sticking, about 6 minutes. Stir occasionally. Stir in the milk and catsup, and cook about 2 minutes more. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Place ground meats in a large mixing bowl. Add the eggs, cooked vegetable mixture, (removing the bay leaves) and bread crumbs. Mixed by hand until combined. Shape the mixture into a 1½” x 6” x 12” loaf. Place into an ungreased 13” x 9” baking pan. Bake uncovered for 25 minutes. Raise heat to 400° and bake another 35 minutes. Serve with the Very Hot Cajun Sauce. 

Very Hot Cajun Sauce

Ingredients:

1 onion, chopped

½ green bell pepper, chopped

1 stalk of celery, chopped

¼ cup of vegetable oil

¼ cup and 1 tbsp. of flour

¾ tsp. of red cayenne pepper

½ tsp. of white pepper

½ tsp. of black pepper

2 bay leaves

¼ cup of jalapeno peppers, chopped

1 tsp. of minced garlic

3 cups of beef stock

Preparation:

Combine the onions, bell peppers, and celery in a small bowl and set aside. In a heavy 2-qt. Saucepan, heat oil medium-low heat. With a whisk, add the flour a little at a time until smooth. Continue cooking, whisking constantly, until light brown for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in the vegetable mixture and the red, white, and black peppers. Return to high heat and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the bay leaves, jalapeno peppers, and garlic, stirring well and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Remove the bay leaf before adding to beef stock. In a separate 2-qt. saucepan, bring the beef stock to a boil. Add the vegetable mixture by the spoonfuls to the boiling stock. Dissolve the vegetable mixture before adding another spoonful. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and cook until sauce reduces to 3½ cups, about 15 minutes. Skim any oil from the top. Makes 3½ cups or 6 servings.

Dirty Rice

Ingredients:

1½ lbs. of chicken livers

½ cup of chicken fat

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 large green bell pepper, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

4 large garlic cloves, minced

3 cups of chicken stock

1 tsp. of freshly ground black pepper

¾ tsp. of red cayenne pepper

Salt to taste

¼ cup of fresh flat parsley, minced

6 green onions, chopped

4 cups of cooked white rice

Preparation:

Finely chop the chicken livers. Heat the chicken fat in a 5-6 qt. very heavy kettle over medium heat. Add the chicken livers. Cook, stirring until the mixture is browned, about 10 minutes. If needed, add additional chicken fat to prevent sticking. Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, and garlic. Cook until vegetables are slightly wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock, black pepper, cayenne pepper, and salt. Reduce heat to low and cook stirring often until thickened about 45 minutes. Fold in the parsley, green onions, and rice. Stir well. Cook just to heat through.  

Cajun Maquechou

Ingredients:

1/3 cup of bacon drippings

2 17½ oz. cans of whole kernel corn, drained

[I prefer frozen corn, thawed and drained.]

2 small onions, chopped

2 medium garlic cloves, minced

2 medium green bell peppers, chopped

1 large tomato, peeled and chopped

½ tsp. of salt

½ tsp. of freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp. of sugar

½ tsp. of red cayenne pepper

1 cup of chicken stock

1 cup of milk

2 eggs

Preparation:

Heat the bacon drippings in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the corn, onion, garlic, and bell peppers; cook until the onion is wilted, about 10 minutes. Stir often to prevent sticking. Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, sugar, and cayenne; stir until combined. Add the chicken stock. Reduce the heat to low simmer, stirring often, until the liquid is almost evaporated, about 30 minutes. The mixture will be thick and mushy. Stir in the milk and cook until reduced by half. Increase heat slightly. In a small bowl, beat the eggs until frothy, stirring constantly. Add to the pan in a slow, steady stream. Cook just to thicken, 3 to 4 minutes.

Next: Another three pot meal and traditional cajun ingredients and seasonings.

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